When my dad told me in 2016 that he would pay for me and Lindsey to go on a trip as long as America Airlines could get there we instantly started scanning options in the Caribbean. I wanted to go to a beach and we both wanted someplace where we could be adults outside of the usual tourist traps. After some searching we decide to take a trip to St. Croix, a place technically part of the US but far removed from mindset of the average American. We decided to stay in an inclusive resort and avoid any place that was too kid friendly. Little did we know that this would be our last vacation before having a kid.
When we arrived on the island the first thing that stood out is how untourist it was. We were certainly off the beaten path, as the small airport wasn't full of the knick-nacks you get used to in any place propped up by that industry. Our taxi driver to the resort was the most helpful taxi driver we had ever had, as he was quick to tell us the best places to go so "maybe we would actually come back and tell our friends." In his urge to be an ambassador I quickly figured out the place was off the average person's map for a reason, it wasn't setup to accommodate tourists like most islands around it.
Early on we mostly stayed near the very relaxing resort, walking up and down the nearby beach to find many interesting dilapidated properties down the coastline. The first day we also went into the "town" of the place via the resort shuttle. It was a small Euro-style village with good seafood and food approximating the creole food I grew up around. Everyone was friendly and I was happy to see the fort and monuments that made up the historical sights of the island, but it only took a day to maximize what the small town had to offer and soon we found ourselves wanting to explore the island and do more. We didn't originally rent a car so we arranged at the island's port for us to get a car the next day to explore away from where the few tourists went.
When we tried to rent the car that next day we discovered that we left behind in the hotel much of what they needed from us, so we took a taxi back to the hotel to get everything arranged so we could have our own mobility on the island. This taxi driver was one of the most unique people I have ever met in my life. Together we sang Bob Marley and he told me his philosophy on life. I enjoyed the encounter so much I have saved his business card until today, it was the highlight of the trip for me. That and shopping at the island K Mart where rum was as cheap as coke were the two things I really remember as vividly as if I was still there.
After we rented the car we started trying to take up the advice of the first taxi driver and explore some of the places he told us about. First we went to eat at the "Chicken Shack" aka a run down Dixie Chicken looking place in the middle of the woods. They would only sell grilled chickens in halves or wholes, and Lindsey was so blown away by the taste of the chicken that we ate there two more times before we left the island. I enjoyed the establishment's rum drinks and casual party attitude, it was certainly another highlight of the trip.
One thing that was difficult to find on the island was the main thing I wanted out of the trip: time on a pretty beach. After some advice from the locals we found out that some of the best beaches were right behind the houses of rich people: they could own the shoreline but not the beach. One day we parked along this back road and took a secret looking path to one of the islands better beaches and swam right next to the island's country club. This wasn't a nice white beach like I was going for but it was fun and we enjoyed all the different fauna we saw along the way.
Towards the end of our week there I wanted to finally see a good beach and we learned of a turtle reserve on the far side of the island from where we were staying called "Sandy Point" that apparently had the best beaches. So the day before we left for home we loaded up and drove across the island to the turtle reserve to get a look. Since this was a protected area is was very undeveloped and not that many people were there, but when we walked the longish walk from the parking to the beach we found a beach that was as nice as any I had seen in my life. I spent the day splashing in the water and soaking it all up like I was a kid again, and eventually I got the worst sunburn of my life because we were out there so long. But the natural dunes and the pretty blue water had finally recharged my battery completely and the mission of the entire vacation was completed.
On our last day we were certainly sad to go as the slow pace of the island and the lack of fellow tourists made it very relaxing. By that point we had been around long enough for me to soak up local quirks (aka how many signs were in quotes, how most of the residents didn't have a normal stable job, etc.) and we snuck over to the Chicken Shack on the way to the airport for one last meal there where the locals ate. I hope we get to go back one day but even if we don't it was a great vacation and something even years later I look back on fondly.
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